[ 國際調酒師系列 ] 化腐朽為神奇的調酒創意家 — Iain Griffiths & Kelsey Ramage

Iain Griffiths與Kelsey Ramage過去曾是一起在White Lyan以及Dandelyan的夥伴,這兩家倫敦的傳奇調酒吧是近年來最引人注目的焦點,不僅僅是因為它們接連被國際調酒評選單位Tales of the Cocktail選為最佳國際新酒吧,更是因為這兩間酒吧都以創意打造出具有永續性的產品。

而幾個月前,他們一起來到KOR Taipei,是為了向我們分享他們的新計畫——「Trash Tiki」。

「Trash Tiki」是一個根基於網路的社群平台及快閃活動,上面發佈了許多「如何將廢棄食材再利用」的科學作法,用意是希望提醒大家,在提供高品質的精緻調酒的同時,也要意識到這個產業製造了多少的食物浪費,並且可以如何改善這個問題。

雖然身為獲獎無數、並且身披傳奇酒吧光環的調酒師,Iain Griffiths與Kelsey Ramage在推廣「Trash Tiki」上可說是不遺餘力,他們從2016年12月便開始他們的世界之旅,在世界各地透過快閃活動的形式散佈理念,並且也不斷搜集更多世界各地的食材再製方法。你可以透過他們的網站(http://www.trashtikisucks.com/blog/)看到更多有趣的新酒譜或備料方法。

以下是我們對兩位調酒師的採訪紀錄,他們大方的分享有關這個點子的由來:

1.「Trash Tiki」是一個非常棒的點子,你們的靈感是什麼?在執行的過程中曾遭遇過什麼困難?你們如何影響世界各地的酒吧?

這個點子其實來自於一個週末,我們花了整個週末的時間在酒吧Dandelyan工作,我們一邊喝著啤酒、威士忌,一邊討論著每個週五、週六我們到底會賣出多少飲料,以及我們在整個過程中會浪費掉哪些東西。Trash Tiki的理念就是透過一個開放形式的網路社群,並且用不說教的方式跟大家呈現:精緻調酒產業中會產生很多食材的浪費,而這些東西其實都還具有風味,而我們就是要用有趣的方式將它們重生。

Dandelyan 很早就已經有重複利用食材的習慣,也會去計算每天浪費掉的數量,我們在Dandelyan一起合作過2個酒單,也在Lyan group做了很多以「永續性」為優先考慮的計畫。也因為這些前因,我們決定開始透過網路開始做「Trash Tiki」的計畫,讓世界各地的調酒師們都可以參考。

後來,在幾個早期的快閃活動中,我們發現這些需求遠遠大於我們一開始的想像:我們的第一個快閃活動是在2016年12月,在好朋友Aaron Polsky的協助下,在洛杉磯的酒吧Harvard & Stone舉辦,在這之後,我們開始了全球之旅,也陸續收到了更多的需求,這些讓我們意識到我們真的要上路了,而這條路上我們將可以做自己喜歡的事、並且實現「永續性」的真正意義。

任何像這樣的旅程,總是充滿著挑戰。有一些人並不認為我們是「真正的Tiki」,但是透過 Tiki這個概念,我們獲得了很多動力及樂趣。我們每到一個地方,都會保留時間去當地的調酒吧,很多都變成我們的靈感。

尤其是在過去幾週,我們看到一些酒吧在他們的Instagram上tag我們,有的是用了我們網站上的酒譜、有的是把用過的食材發揮第二次的效用。這實在是激勵人心!有一個來自Curacao(一座位於加勒比海南部的島嶼)的調酒師甚至用了我們的Trash Tiki Curacao酒譜,能把影響力散佈到我們沒造訪的地方,實在是非常酷!另外,有一些我們去過的酒吧仍持續的使用著我們的食材,像是Tepache這杯調酒,就是很容易複製的活生生例子(Tepache會使用發酵的鳳梨皮作為原料)。芝加哥的酒吧Broken Shaker甚至利用原先酒單上會浪費的食材創作了額外的5杯"Trash"調酒作為第二份酒單,太棒了!

2.可以給我們一個例子嗎?你們是怎麼重複利用食材?

每間酒吧根據它的所在地區、供應的酒單、以及酒吧風格的不同,都會有不一樣的做法。其中一個我們最近在各處快閃都有使用的酒譜,是「柑橘庫存 (Citrus Stock)」(做法在這:http://www.trashtikisucks.com/blog/2017/7/14/citrus-stock)。 幾乎所有提供經典調酒的酒吧都使用新鮮的檸檬汁或萊姆汁,但果皮通常會被扔掉,而且這些新鮮果汁通常沒辦法保存很久。因此,我們創造了一個新的替代品,就是使用榨完汁的柑橘殼來加工製作柑橘汁,它可以比新鮮果汁多3天的保存期限,也可以跟新鮮的萊姆汁混搭,讓飲料多了一層苦味和油脂,更能增加飲料的複雜性。這只是一個開始,通常的狀況是調酒師可以看看你的酒吧已經有了什麼、平常都在丟掉什麼,並用這些食材作為新酒譜的靈感。

下載©Trash Tiki

3.你怎麼看亞洲的酒吧文化?像是新加坡、香港、中國以及台灣?

亞洲是我們開始全球旅行的第一站,我們在新加坡、香港及首爾都做了快閃活動。在來到台灣之前我們從未來過這裡,我們都非常興奮可以瞧瞧這裡的酒吧。顯然的,新加坡是某些國際知名酒吧的家鄉,我們很高興有機會去看看。其中一間叫Native的酒吧,使用了很多在地的烈酒,他們甚至有一種來自泰國的Agricole Rhum,能夠看到一間酒吧專注在提供令人驚豔的新加坡在地食材是很酷的事。

香港也很好玩,我們在朋友Nickle Morris及Beckaly Franks(看更多Beckaly Franks的文章:https://goo.gl/UDys6x)開的酒吧 the Pontiac 舉辦快閃活動。香港是一個很驚人的城市,在我們的亞洲之旅中,我們看到這些城市裡的酒吧社群其實都在一個WhatsApp的群組裡,他們透過社群軟體互相聯繫,真是個好主意!雖然大多數的時候都是用來宣傳活動,但如果有哪個VIP在城裡時,大家也會用這互相通知,當我們在香港思考著哪理剩餘食材可以拿來使用時,大家也是透過這個群組互相分享自己有哪些可能可以用的食材。這群組讓我們更加便利,而且也讓整個社群更加團結。

trash-tiki-founders-ltor-iain-griffiths-kelsey-ramage-photo-cre.jpg.size-custom-crop.1086x0©Trash Tiki

Iain Griffiths and Kelsey Ramage were colleagues at White Lyan and Dandelyan, two infamous London cocktail bars which offered some of the most exciting drinks in the bar industry. Over the past few years, the two bars earned enviable reputations amongst consumers and bartenders alike by winning the prestigious Best New International Cocktail Bar award at Tales of the Cocktail, two years in a row (2014 for White Lyan and 2015 for Dandelyan).

They came to KOR to talk about their new project, Trash Tiki.

Trash Tiki is a pop up and online platform (http://www.trashtikisucks.com/blog/) that seeks to create all ingredients for a tiki bar, from off cuts, unsold products and other raw materials otherwise destined for the bin.

To raise awareness of Trash Tiki and the greater message for bars and restaurants to start being more sustainable, Iain Griffiths and Kelsey Ramage are going to undertake something of a tour and take this idea on the road to as many cities as they can.

We had a few questions for them when they visited KOR Taipei during Bartender’s Week Taiwan 2017:

1.Trash Tiki is a very cool idea, what was the inspiration behind that? What kind of difficulties did you encounter during this project? How do you think you have influenced other bars around the world?

Thank you! We came up with the idea for Trash Tiki after having spent a weekend working together in Dandelyan. Chatting over a beer and a whisky, we discussed the massive number of drinks we had pumped across the bar on the Friday and Saturday nights, and what had to be thrown away before, during and after those services. The idea came as a way of showing the craft cocktail industry that those would-be waste ingredients could still be used for flavour, in an open-forum community that was non-preachy and could actually be a lot of fun.

Dandelyan already had some focus on reusing ingredients, and still seeing how much they go through for waste on a daily basis. We already knew we worked well together having worked on 2 of Dandelyan’s menus, plus with his work with the Lyan group, sustainability always has this on the forefront of many projects. We started the project as an online platform that could be a reference for bartenders, but after the first few pop-ups, we realized there was more demand for them than we originally planned. A global tour started to take form after we launched our first pop-up in December of last year at Harvard & Stone in LA, with the help of our good friend, Aaron Polsky. After that we got a few more requests in and it started to become clear that we needed to take the show on the road, where could play the music we wanted and start breathing some life back into the word ‘sustainability’.

With any kind of touring schedule of this kind, there are always challenges. There have been a few people who have reached out about how we are “not really tiki". However, along the tour we have gained a lot of momentum and had a lot of fun within the tiki category. We always do make sure that we have time to check out each city we are in, go to the cocktail bars there and a lot of times, have come out really inspired by the scene there! It’s been a lot of fun.

In the past few weeks especially, we have seen quite a few bars tagging us in their drinks on Instagram, either using some recipe from the website, or bringing life to ingredients that normally are only used once. It’s inspiring! There was a bartender from Curacao that even used our Trash Tiki Curacao recipe- it’s very cool that the reach is even beyond the places we have visited. In addition, there are bars that we have visited that continue to use our ingredients, the Tepache for example can be kept alive and simply added to. Broken Shaker in Chicago actually did a full second menu, which uses the would-be waste ingredients from their regular menu to make a “Trash"-inspired extra 5 drinks. Pretty awesome!

2.Could you give me an example of how we can use recycling methods to reuse ingredients?

Ultimately, each bar is different depending on locality, their menu offering and the style of bar it is. One recipe that we use in nearly all of our pop-ups is a citrus stock. Nearly all bars that have a classic offering use fresh lemon or lime juice, and because they are only used for their juice, the husk normally gets thrown out. We have created a more shelf stable ‘stock’ out of the husks that we use as a replacement for fresh juice which is a little more shelf stable (3 days). It can also be blended back into the lime juice to stretch its use, and also to create another layer of bitterness and oils with contributes to the drink’s complexity. But, this is just a start, really it is about looking at what you have in your bar already, what would have been thrown out and using it as inspiration for new recipes.

3.What do you think about the bar culture in Asia? In particular in Singapore, Hong Kong, China, Taiwan…etc.?

Asia was one of the first stops we made on our tour! We did pop-ups in Singapore, Hong Kong and Seoul. Neither of us have been to Taiwan yet, but we are very excited to be coming and checking out the bars there. Obviously Singapore is home to some internationally recognized bars, and it was great to go and see some of them. One of which is a bar called Native which uses a lot of local spirits and produce in the drinks. They even had a really interesting Agricole Rhum from Thailand. It was cool to see a bar that focussed on the amazing local ingredients that could be found in Singapore. Hong Kong was also a lot of fun, we did our pop-up at the Pontiac which is run by our good friends Nickle Morris and Beckaly Franks. It is an amazing city.

Throughout our tour in Asia, we saw that the bar community in many of the cities were all on one WhatsApp thread that they used as a communication tool between the bars. What a great idea, although a lot of times it was used to promote events, it was also used to let each other know when a VIP might be in town, and alert the next bar that person was headed to. When we were pulling together waste for the HK pop-up, the thread was used for different bars to offer their possible ingredients and to organize pickup and drop-off. It made our lives easier and I think brought the community together.

 

 

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